A ruby reads as colour first and stone second. Its deep, saturated red has stood for passion across centuries, which makes it a considered choice for an engagement ring rather than a fashionable one. Our founder has designed and made fine jewellery in London since 1999, and a ruby ring is among the most rewarding commissions to bring to the bench.
Built for daily wear
Ruby is red corundum, the same mineral as sapphire, and registers 9 on the Mohs scale of hardness. That places it second only to diamond and well ahead of most coloured stones used in jewellery. For a ring worn every day, hardness matters: it resists the scratches and knocks that gradually dull softer gems. A ruby keeps its polish and presence for a lifetime, which is precisely what an engagement ring is asked to do.
Reading the colour
Colour decides a ruby's character and its value. The most prized tone is a vivid, slightly purplish red, sometimes described as pigeon's blood, though fine rubies span a range of warm to cool reds. There is no single correct choice. Some clients want the deepest possible saturation; others prefer a brighter, more open red that catches the light.
We source rubies to your brief, with certification available, and share full grading and detail, including on a video call, so you can choose with confidence, as red is notoriously hard to render accurately on a screen.
Honest about treatment
Most natural rubies on the market are heat-treated to improve and stabilise their colour. This is a long-standing, accepted practice within the trade, and a treated ruby is no less real for it. The key points are simple:
- Heat treatment is standard, permanent and stable under normal wear.
- It should always be disclosed, and we disclose it as a matter of course.
- Untreated rubies exist and command a premium, which we will explain clearly if that is your preference.
You will never be sold a treated stone as untreated. Every ruby we source comes with the information you need to choose with confidence.
Settings that suit the stone
Ruby's saturated red sits well against both white and yellow metals. We work in platinum and 18ct golds, so the choice is genuinely open. A surround of white diamonds sharpens the red and adds brightness; warm yellow gold reads as classic and intimate. Diamond accents, a halo, or a three-stone arrangement all flatter a central ruby, and independent grading is available on our diamonds, natural or laboratory-grown.
Bespoke engagement rings start from £2,000. Every piece is designed in CAD and hand-finished at our own bench, with casting and setting carried out by trusted specialist workshops.
Good to know
Are heat-treated rubies a problem?
No. Heat treatment is standard across the trade, stable over time and openly disclosed. A treated ruby is still a natural ruby. We tell you exactly what you are buying so there are no surprises.
How long does a bespoke ruby ring take?
It depends on the design and on sourcing the right stone. After your first appointment we give a realistic timeline. You can read more about how we work on our bespoke engagement rings page.
To talk through a design and explore your options, book a consultation at our private studio in The Goldsmiths' Centre, a short walk from Farringdon.
