A coloured stone puts one deliberately chosen shade at the centre of a ring. Sapphire, ruby, aquamarine and emerald each carry their own character and their own demands. We build each gemstone ring around both the stone and the hand that wears it.
Why choose a coloured stone
People reach for colour for reasons a clear diamond cannot answer. A blue sapphire might mark a birth month, while a deep red ruby might carry a private meaning between two people. Colour also reads as individuality. In a row of white solitaires, a single saturated stone is the one the eye returns to.
It is a personal decision rather than a default one, which is why we start with conversation rather than a tray of stock.
How the stones wear
Engagement rings are worn every day, so hardness matters more here than in any other piece. The four stones below behave very differently against daily knocks and abrasion, measured on the Mohs scale.
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Sapphire. Mohs 9, available in almost any colour, and the toughest coloured stone for everyday wear.
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Ruby. Mohs 9, red, and every bit as hard-wearing as sapphire, since both are the mineral corundum.
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Aquamarine. Mohs 7.5 to 8, a clear cool blue that suits daily wear with reasonable care.
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Emerald. Mohs 7.5 to 8, green, but more brittle and usually included, so it needs a protective setting.
Most sapphires, rubies and emeralds on the market are treated in standard ways to improve colour or clarity. We tell you plainly what a stone has been through before you commit to it.
Pairing colour with diamonds
A coloured centre rarely sits alone. Diamonds along the shoulders, a slim halo or a pair of tapered side stones all sharpen a colour and add light around it. We offer both natural and laboratory-grown diamonds, with independent grading available, so you can balance the look you want against the budget you have set. If you are weighing the two, our notes on laboratory-grown diamonds set out the practical differences.
The bespoke approach
Every ring is designed in CAD and hand-finished at our own bench in The Goldsmiths' Centre, with casting and setting carried out by specialist workshops. We work in platinum and in 9ct, 14ct and 18ct gold, and we see clients by appointment at a private studio a short walk from Farringdon. Bespoke engagement rings start from £2,000, with complimentary insured shipping to UK clients and professional cleaning and inspection available at our bench.
To discuss a stone and a design in person, book a consultation at our London studio, or read more about our bespoke engagement rings before you visit.
