A coloured stone puts a single idea at the centre of a ring: one shade, chosen deliberately, that no one else will read the same way. Sapphire, ruby, aquamarine and emerald each carry their own character and their own demands. Our founder has designed and made fine jewellery in London since 1999, and we build each gemstone ring around both the stone and the hand that wears it.
Why choose a coloured stone
People reach for colour for reasons a clear diamond cannot answer. A blue sapphire might mark a birth month, while a deep red ruby might carry a private meaning between two people. Colour also reads as individuality. In a row of white solitaires, a single saturated stone is the one the eye returns to.
It is a personal decision rather than a default one, which is why we start with conversation rather than a tray of stock.
A frank look at durability
Engagement rings are worn every day, so hardness matters more here than in any other piece. The four stones below behave very differently against daily knocks and abrasion, measured on the Mohs scale.
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Sapphire. Mohs 9, available in almost any colour, and the toughest coloured stone for everyday wear.
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Ruby. Mohs 9, red, and every bit as hard-wearing as sapphire, since both are the mineral corundum.
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Aquamarine. Mohs 7.5 to 8, a clear cool blue that suits daily wear with reasonable care.
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Emerald. Mohs 7.5 to 8, green, but more brittle and usually included, so it needs a protective setting.
Most sapphires, rubies and emeralds on the market are treated in standard ways to improve colour or clarity. We tell you plainly what a stone has been through before you commit to it.
Pairing colour with diamonds
A coloured centre rarely sits alone. Diamonds along the shoulders, a slim halo or a pair of tapered side stones all sharpen a colour and add light around it. We offer both natural and laboratory-grown diamonds, each independently graded, so you can balance the look you want against the budget you have set. If you are weighing the two, our notes on lab-grown diamonds set out the practical differences.
The bespoke approach
Every ring is designed in CAD and hand-finished at our own bench in The Goldsmiths' Centre, with casting and setting carried out by trusted specialist workshops. We work in platinum and 18ct golds, and we see clients by appointment at a private studio a short walk from Farringdon. Settings start from £800 and complete bespoke engagement rings start from £1,500, with two years of aftercare and complimentary insured shipping to UK clients.
Common questions
Which coloured stone is best for everyday wear?
Sapphire and ruby are the most durable choices, both at Mohs 9, because they are the same mineral. Aquamarine holds up well with care. Emerald is the softest and most brittle of the four and should sit in a setting that shields its edges.
Are gemstones usually treated?
Often, yes. Heat treatment of sapphire and ruby and oiling of emerald are common and accepted within the trade. We are honest about what has been done to any stone we present, so there are no surprises later.
Can I set a coloured stone alongside diamonds?
Yes. Diamond shoulders, halos and side stones all work with coloured centres and are among the most popular bespoke requests. You choose natural or independently graded lab-grown diamonds to suit your design and budget.
To discuss a stone and a design in person, book a consultation at our London studio, or read more about our bespoke engagement rings before you visit.
