The marquise is an elongated stone with two pointed ends, drawn out to give the largest face-up size of any diamond shape for its weight. It reads as generous and slightly regal on the hand, and its long lines lengthen the finger. For a client who wants real presence without paying for extra carats, it is a sensible choice.
Why the marquise carries its weight so well
Because the marquise spreads its surface area outward rather than down into the stone, a given carat weight looks markedly larger than the same weight in a rounder shape. The eye is led along the length of the diamond, which is part of why the cut flatters the finger and sits so well on most hands.
It is also a shape with a long history and a sense of occasion, which suits a ring meant to mark something significant.
The bow-tie effect, and how we manage it
Every marquise shows some degree of bow-tie, a darker band across the centre where light passes through rather than returning to the eye. A well-cut stone keeps this subtle; a poorly proportioned one lets it dominate. We source stones to your brief, with certification available, and look for even brilliance from end to end, so the bow-tie reads as character rather than a flaw.
This is one reason we share the full grading and details of each stone rather than a grade alone. Two diamonds with identical grades on a certificate can perform very differently in the metal.
Protecting the points
The two pointed ends are the marquise's signature and its most vulnerable feature. Left exposed, a sharp point can chip against everyday wear. Good setting design solves this without hiding the shape.
- V-shaped prongs, or claws, that cup and shield each point
- A securely seated stone with the points sitting slightly proud of the band edge
- Platinum or gold settings chosen for durability as well as colour
We work in platinum and in 9ct, 14ct and 18ct gold, and every setting is designed in CAD with the protection around the points built in rather than added afterwards, then hand-finished at our own bench, with casting and setting carried out by specialist workshops.
Settings that flatter the shape
A marquise can be set north to south along the finger for the longest line, or turned east to west for a wider, more contemporary look. A simple solitaire keeps the attention on the outline, while a three-stone arrangement frames the centre and adds width. Tapered shoulders and a fine band keep the proportions in balance and let the stone look its full size.
To explore marquise diamonds sourced to your brief and design a ring around the stone you choose, book a consultation at our private London studio. Bespoke engagement rings start from £2,000, each designed in-house and hand-finished at our own bench.
