Skip to main content

Three generations of jewellers

Menu
Book a consultation

Gemstones

Loose Gemstones | Hatton Garden, London

Our loose gemstone service at Hatton Garden Bespoke Jewellery sources sapphires, rubies, emeralds, aquamarines, tourmalines, spinels, and rarer fancy gems from supply chains we trust. Every stone is selected to your brief and assessed for colour, clarity, cut, and origin, so a commission begins with a stone we would happily wear ourselves.

Precious stones we work with regularly include blue sapphires (Ceylon, Kashmir, Madagascar), fancy sapphires (pink, yellow, padparadscha), rubies (Burmese, Mozambican, Thai), emeralds (Colombian, Zambian), and aquamarines from Brazilian and African sources.

Semi-precious and collector stones include tourmaline (including Paraiba), spinel, tanzanite, topaz, peridot, garnet (including tsavorite and demantoid), morganite, alexandrite, and cultured pearls. For an unusual commission, we also source rare stones to order: demantoid from the Ural Mountains, unheated Kashmir sapphires, Burmese pigeon-blood rubies, and Colombian muzo emeralds.

Certification and ethics. Independent certification is available, where applicable, on significant centre stones from leading coloured-stone laboratories such as Gubelin, SSEF, GIA, GCS, or AGL. Certificates confirm natural origin, disclose treatments, and for sapphires and rubies often specify country of origin, which can affect value considerably. We buy through reputable trade suppliers and request provenance documentation where it is available.

Hardness and durability. Not every beautiful gemstone suits every setting. For engagement rings and other daily-wear pieces we recommend stones at 7.5 or higher on the Mohs scale: sapphire (9), ruby (9), spinel (7.5 to 8), aquamarine (7.5 to 8), tourmaline (7 to 7.5), topaz (8). For gemstone engagement rings we advise a protective bezel or halo setting on softer stones such as emerald, to guard the crystal against knocks. Opal, pearl, and turquoise are best kept for earrings, pendants, and dress rings.

How to start a gemstone commission. Tell us the carat range, colour you have in mind, origin if it matters, and budget. Our buyers put together a parcel of stones within two to four weeks, often sourced direct from cutters in Sri Lanka, Madagascar, Thailand, and Mozambique. You then choose from certified stones we have sourced to your brief, online, and we design the setting around the exact dimensions of the one you pick. Contact our team to begin, or browse completed commissions in our gallery.

Common questions

What gemstones do you work with?

At Hatton Garden Bespoke Jewellery we work with sapphires (blue and all fancy colours), rubies, emeralds, aquamarines, tourmalines, topaz, tanzanite, spinel, morganite, peridot, garnet, amethyst, citrine, and pearl. We also source rare and unusual stones including Paraiba tourmaline, padparadscha sapphire, demantoid garnet, and alexandrite to order.

Are your gemstones certified?

Yes. Significant centre gemstones can be supplied, where available, with independent laboratory certification from Gubelin, SSEF, GIA, GCS, or AGL, the leading coloured-stone labs in the world. Certification confirms natural origin, treatments disclosed, and for rubies and sapphires often the country of origin.

What is the difference between natural and lab-grown gemstones?

Natural gemstones form underground over millions of years and carry rarity and heritage value. Lab-grown gemstones are chemically identical but produced in controlled laboratory conditions in weeks, costing 40 to 70% less. We can source both and advise which suits your piece and budget.

How are coloured gemstones graded?

Unlike diamonds, coloured gemstones are not graded on the 4Cs scale. Quality is judged on colour saturation, tone, clarity (eye-clean rather than microscopically graded), cut symmetry, and carat. For rubies and sapphires, origin and heat-treatment status significantly affect value, and unheated Burmese rubies command the highest premium.

Which gemstones are hardest enough for an engagement ring?

For daily-wear rings we recommend stones scoring 7.5 or higher on the Mohs hardness scale. Sapphire (9), ruby (9), aquamarine (7.5-8), spinel (7.5-8), tourmaline (7-7.5), and topaz (8) are all suitable. Emerald (7.5) is durable but brittle due to internal inclusions, so we advise protective settings. Opal (5-6.5) is too soft for daily wear but beautiful for dress rings.

Can you source a specific gemstone I want?

Yes. Stone sourcing is one of our most requested services. Tell us carat range, colour preference, budget, and origin if relevant, and our buyers present a curated selection within two to four weeks. Many of our sourced stones come direct from cutters in Sri Lanka, Madagascar, and Mozambique.