Diamond Shapes Explained: A London Jeweller's Guide to Choosing the Right Cut

The shape of a diamond is its outline, round, oval, cushion, emerald, pear, and so on. Each shape catches light differently, flatters different hand shapes, and sits in a different price tier. This guide walks through the ten classic shapes we work with at Hatton Garden Bespoke Jewellery, with clear guidance on when each one is the right choice.

Round brilliant

The most-commissioned shape by a wide margin. The 57-facet round brilliant is engineered for maximum light return; no other cut sparkles as intensely. It is also the benchmark for diamond pricing, so round brilliants carry a modest premium over fancy shapes of equivalent weight. Works with every setting style.

Oval

An elongated brilliant cut with similar fire to a round but a slimmer silhouette. Oval diamonds appear larger than a round of the same carat weight, making them popular with clients who want visual presence. They suit slimmer fingers and modern solitaire or halo settings. Watch out for the “bowtie”, a shadow across the centre in poorly-cut stones, which your jeweller should point out in person.

Cushion

A square or rectangular shape with rounded corners. Cushions bridge the gap between round and princess, offering softer fire and a vintage feel. They pair beautifully with halo or three-stone settings. Modern cushion cuts (post-2000) are generally more brilliant than older “antique cushion” versions, ask your jeweller which style you are looking at.

Princess

A sharp-cornered square brilliant. Princess cuts were the most popular fancy shape in the early 2000s but have since moved to a confident second place. They offer strong brilliance and the sharp corners lend a contemporary, architectural feel. Settings typically include protective claws over the corners.

Emerald

A rectangular step-cut with long, parallel facets. Emerald cuts do not sparkle in the conventional sense, they flash in broader planes, creating a “hall of mirrors” effect. Clarity becomes visually more important with step cuts because inclusions are harder to hide, so we typically recommend VS1 or better for emerald commissions.

Pear

Sometimes called a teardrop. One rounded end, one point. Elegant and distinctive, pear shapes elongate the finger and work especially well in east-west or north-south solitaire settings. They require a V-tip claw at the point for protection.

Marquise

An elongated oval with both ends pointed. Marquise cuts appear larger than their carat weight suggests, spreading more surface area across the finger than a round of the same weight. A classic mid-century shape now enjoying a quiet revival among clients who want something distinctive without going fully unconventional.

Radiant

A rectangular brilliant cut, think emerald shape with brilliant-cut facets. Radiants combine the modern look of an emerald with the fire of a round. They are particularly striking in three-stone and east-west settings.

Asscher

A square step-cut with deep truncated corners, often called “square emerald.” Asscher cuts offer the same architectural restraint as emerald shapes but with a more compact silhouette. A favourite of Art Deco collectors.

Heart

Self-explanatory. Heart cuts are modified brilliants with a distinctive cleft at the top. They are rarely commissioned for traditional engagement rings but popular for anniversary pieces, pendants, and sentimental commissions.

Choosing the right shape for your hand

Three rules that cover most decisions:

• Elongated shapes (oval, pear, marquise, emerald) flatter shorter fingers by creating the visual illusion of length.
• Round and cushion suit every hand shape and are the safest long-term choices.
• Square shapes (princess, asscher, radiant) work best on long, slender fingers, they do not add visual length.

That said, the best way to choose is to talk it through with us. We source stones to your brief and walk you through the options, with CAD renders of your design to approve, before anything is set.

Shape, certification and price

With us, GIA or IGI certification is available on every centre stone regardless of shape. Round brilliants are the most certified and therefore most transparently priced, the market has decades of comparable stones to benchmark against. Fancy shapes (everything non-round) typically sit below a round of the same carat, colour, and clarity because demand is lower. For more on pricing, see what a bespoke engagement ring costs.

Frequently asked questions

Which diamond shape is most popular?
Round brilliant, by a clear margin, both across the trade and in our own commissions.

Which shape appears largest for the carat weight?
Marquise, then oval, then pear, all elongated shapes spread surface area over a longer footprint.

Does shape affect how the ring resists chipping?
Yes. Shapes with sharp points (pear, marquise, heart, princess) need protective claws at the vulnerable points. Our setters build these in automatically, ask during your consultation.

Can you help me decide which shape suits me?
Of course. Bring your ideas and we will work through them together, in person by appointment or by video call. Start your ring design or book a consultation.