Platinum, Gold, or Something Else? A Guide to Metals for Bespoke Engagement Rings

Metal is the single biggest decision you will make after the diamond itself, it shapes the ring's colour, weight, longevity, and price. This is our working guide to the four metals we use daily at Hatton Garden Bespoke Jewellery: platinum, 18ct white gold, 18ct yellow gold, and 18ct rose gold.

Platinum: the heavyweight

Platinum is denser, purer, and harder than gold. A platinum ring weighs noticeably more on the hand and holds a cooler, slightly grey-white tone. It is the natural choice for clients who want maximum longevity with minimal maintenance, platinum develops a soft patina over years but does not tarnish, fade, or need re-plating.

Trade-offs: platinum is 60 to 80% more expensive than 18ct gold by weight. It is slightly harder to polish, so refurbishment costs a little more. It is also cooler in tone than white gold, which some clients find too clinical against warm skin.

Typical solitaire setting cost: £1,400 to £2,100

18ct white gold: the classic

White gold is a gold alloy mixed with silvery metals like palladium, nickel, and zinc, then rhodium-plated to achieve the bright white finish. It is significantly lighter on the hand than platinum and costs less, the same solitaire design in 18ct white gold ranges £900 to £1,400.

The caveat: the rhodium plating wears over three to five years of daily wear and needs refreshing. Re-plating costs £60 to £120 and takes a day at most. If you prefer a ring that never needs maintenance, platinum is the better fit.

Typical solitaire setting cost: £900 to £1,400

18ct yellow gold: the revival

Yellow gold fell out of favour in the 2000s but has enjoyed a strong revival since about 2018. It is warm, traditional, and flatters darker skin tones particularly well. 18ct is 75% pure gold, giving a rich colour without being too soft for daily wear.

Yellow gold pairs especially well with warmer diamond colour grades (H, I, J), the yellow tint in a lower-colour stone disappears against a yellow gold setting, so you get visual whiteness for less money. It is also the classic choice for heirloom and vintage-inspired designs.

Typical solitaire setting cost: £900 to £1,400

18ct rose gold: the romantic

Rose gold takes its pink tone from a higher copper content in the alloy. It is warm, unusual, and deeply romantic in feel. Rose gold also happens to be the hardest-wearing of the three 18ct golds, the copper adds physical durability, so it is a quietly practical choice despite the soft appearance.

Rose gold works exceptionally well with morganite and salt-and-pepper diamonds, and in vintage-inspired halo or three-stone settings. Pair with a rose-gold wedding band for a unified look, or contrast with white gold or platinum for a mixed-metal piece.

Typical solitaire setting cost: £900 to £1,400

9ct vs 18ct: what's the real difference?

9ct gold contains 37.5% pure gold; 18ct contains 75%. The higher gold content of 18ct gives a richer, warmer colour and a more noticeable weight. 9ct is harder physically (more alloyed metal) but more prone to slight tarnishing over decades. 18ct is our default for engagement rings; 9ct is an option for entry-level commissions where budget is the governing concern. For a complete cost breakdown, see our pricing guide.

Hallmarking and the London Assay Office

Every bespoke piece from HGBJ is hallmarked at the London Assay Office, the city's Assay Office since 1478. The hallmark is your independent, permanent assurance of metal purity and it is included in our quoted price, not added on.

Which metal is right for you?

• Want the longest-lasting finish, minimal maintenance, and are comfortable paying more? Platinum.
• Want a traditional white metal ring at a lower price point, and do not mind a rhodium-plating refresh every few years? 18ct white gold.
• Love the warm traditional look, or want the yellow-tint-absorbing effect on a lower colour stone? 18ct yellow gold.
• Want something distinctive with a romantic, modern-vintage feel? 18ct rose gold.
• Not sure? Try them on in person at the studio. Most of our clients change their mind at least once between the initial enquiry and the final quote. Book a consultation.

Frequently asked questions

Which metal is hardest-wearing?
18ct rose gold, followed by platinum. White and yellow 18ct golds are slightly softer; 9ct gold is harder than 18ct but has a less rich tone.

Is platinum worth the extra cost?
For a ring you will wear every day for decades, yes, the reduced maintenance and better patina justify the price. For a piece you will wear occasionally, 18ct gold is the more economic choice.

Can you mix metals in one ring?
Absolutely. Mixed-metal designs, for example a platinum setting on an 18ct yellow gold band, are popular for clients who want visual contrast.

Will my ring be hallmarked?
Yes, every HGBJ piece is hallmarked at the London Assay Office at no extra cost. Read about hallmarks here.