Platinum is the metal most people picture when they imagine a diamond ring, and for good reasons that are worth understanding rather than assuming. It is white without help, it holds a stone securely, and it is the only common jewellery metal that does not gradually lose itself.
We work in 950 platinum, which is 95% pure platinum with the remainder alloyed for workability.
Why platinum, specifically
It is genuinely white
This is the difference that matters most day to day. Platinum is naturally white all the way through. White gold is yellow gold alloyed pale and then rhodium plated to finish it, and that plating wears with time, so a white gold ring needs re-plating every few years to stay bright. A platinum ring simply stays as it is.
Because it is neutral, platinum also gives a diamond nowhere to hide. Any warmth in a stone reads more readily against it, which is why we would generally suggest a colour grade of G to I in platinum, where a J can sit very comfortably in yellow or rose gold.
It does not wear away, it moves
When gold is scratched, a little metal is lost. When platinum is scratched, the metal displaces rather than disappearing, so the weight stays on the ring. Over years this produces a soft satin surface the trade calls a patina, which many people prefer to the original polish. If you do not, it polishes back.
The practical consequence is that platinum claws hold up unusually well, which is part of why it is the traditional choice for a stone you intend to wear every day for decades.
It suits sensitive skin
At 95% purity there is very little else in it. Platinum is hypoallergenic and is usually the right answer for anyone who reacts to other metals, particularly to the nickel found in some white gold alloys.
What platinum costs, and why
Two separate things push the price up, and it is worth separating them.
The first is the metal price itself. The second, and more often overlooked, is density. Platinum is considerably denser than gold, so the same ring design takes more grams of it. A platinum band and an 18ct gold band that look identical do not weigh the same, and you are charged for the difference.
It is also harder to work. Platinum has a much higher melting point and takes more bench time to finish properly, which is real labour rather than a surcharge.
Our settings start at £910 and a complete bespoke ring at £2,000, with platinum sitting toward the upper end of the setting range for any given design. The configurator prices each metal live, so you can see exactly what the choice costs on your design rather than in the abstract.
Platinum against white gold
These are the two options people usually weigh against each other, and both are reasonable.
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Colour. Platinum is white permanently. White gold is white while plated, and the plating wears.
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Upkeep. Platinum needs nothing beyond an occasional polish. White gold needs re-plating periodically to look its best.
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Cost. White gold is meaningfully less, both per gram and because less of it is needed.
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Wear. Platinum displaces rather than losing metal, which favours claws over the long term.
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Skin. Platinum is the safer choice for anyone sensitive to nickel.
If the budget is fixed and the difference would otherwise come out of the stone, white gold in a well made setting is not a compromise anyone will see. If the ring is meant to last several decades untouched, platinum earns its cost. Our metals guide covers the full comparison.
Which settings suit platinum
All of them, though it plays to particular strengths.
A solitaire in platinum is the classic combination and the one we are asked for most, because the neutral metal disappears and leaves the stone. Halo and pavé work particularly well because platinum holds fine detail and small stones securely. A bezel in platinum is about as protective as an engagement ring gets. Three stone designs benefit from the strength when there are three stones to hold rather than one.
Living with a platinum ring
Very little is required. It will develop a patina, which is normal and not damage. Take it off for heavy manual work as you would any ring. Have the claws checked once a year, which we do without charge for rings we have made.
Every piece we make is hallmarked at the London Assay Office, and platinum carries its own fineness mark, so the purity is independently certified rather than taken on trust.
Frequently asked questions
Is platinum better than white gold?
Not better, different. Platinum stays white permanently and wears without losing metal. White gold costs less and looks identical when freshly plated, but the plating needs renewing every few years.
Does platinum scratch?
Yes, like every precious metal. The difference is that the metal moves rather than being lost, producing a soft satin patina over time. It polishes back if you prefer the original finish.
Why is platinum more expensive?
The metal costs more, it is denser so a given design needs more of it, and it takes more bench time to work. All three add to the same ring.
What diamond colour grade suits platinum?
G to I generally. Platinum is neutral and gives the eye nothing to forgive, so warmth shows more readily than it would against yellow or rose gold.
Is platinum good for sensitive skin?
Yes. At 95% purity it is hypoallergenic and is usually the right choice for anyone who reacts to nickel in white gold alloys.
To see what platinum costs on your design, build it in the configurator and switch metals to compare. To understand the commission first, read how designing your own ring works, or book a consultation.
