The princess cut is a square brilliant. It pairs the geometric clarity of straight sides and sharp corners with the lively sparkle of a round, which is why it reads as both modern and brilliant on the hand.
What a princess cut looks like
The princess is a square modified brilliant. From above it is square, or close to it, with four sharp, uncut corners meeting at clean right angles. Below the girdle it carries brilliant-style faceting, with chevron facets running from the corners towards the centre. That faceting gives it its character. Where an emerald cut is calm and stepped, the princess returns a lively scatter of light. It holds a crisp, contemporary outline while still sparkling like a round.
Corner durability and how we protect it
The four corners are the most exposed points on a princess cut. They taper to a fine angle at the widest reach of the stone, so a knock lands there first, and left unprotected those corners are the part most likely to chip. Our standard answer is the V-claw, or chevron claw: a claw shaped to wrap each corner and cup it from two sides at once. Four V-claws, one per corner, shield the most fragile geometry of the stone and hold it securely. Each claw is hand-finished on our own bench, and we check corner protection on every princess cut we set.
Who it suits
The princess suits a modern, geometric taste: clean lines, right angles, a stone that sits square rather than soft. It also gives excellent sparkle for the budget. Cut from a square rough with relatively little waste, it generally offers more carat weight for your money than a round of comparable quality, with brilliance that comes close.
Settings and metals
The solitaire is the natural home for a princess cut, set on four V-claws so the corners stay guarded while the stone is held to the light. Channel-set shoulders run a line of small diamonds flush between two walls of metal, which suits the cut's straight geometry and keeps stones secure for daily wear. A halo of small brilliants around the centre adds width and light, and frames and further shields the corners. Platinum is our usual recommendation for its strength and naturally white colour. 18ct white, yellow and rose gold are all available, each hallmarked at the London Assay Office.
Carat and proportion
A princess wears slightly smaller than a round of the same carat weight, because much of its weight sits in the depth rather than across the face. When comparing stones, read the millimetre measurements, not the carat figure alone, and aim for a length-to-width ratio around 1.00 to 1.05. Beyond that the stone begins to look rectangular. We source certified stones to your brief and share full grading and detail, including spread, depth and corner sharpness, so you can choose with confidence.
Commissioning with us
Every commission begins with a free, no-obligation consultation at our studio in Unit 1.02, The Goldsmiths' Centre, 42 Britton Street, London EC1M 5AD, by appointment. We source the centre stone to your brief, natural or lab-grown, with GIA or IGI certification on every centre stone. You approve the design in CAD before any metal is cut, and your ring is designed in CAD and hand-finished at our own bench, with casting and setting carried out by trusted specialist workshops, and hallmarked at the London Assay Office. Settings start from £800 and complete bespoke engagement rings from £1,500, with most commissions between £3,000 and £12,000. Turnaround is three to four weeks from CAD approval.
Frequently asked questions
Are the corners prone to chipping, and how do you protect them?
The corners are the cut's one weak point, and a princess set on plain round claws does carry a real risk over years of wear. We address it with V-claws, shaped to wrap and cup each corner from two sides, one per corner. A halo adds a further layer by surrounding the perimeter with metal and smaller stones. Set this way, and worn with normal care, a princess cut holds up well to everyday life.
Square or slightly rectangular?
Both are correct; it is a matter of taste. A true square, around 1.00 to 1.02, looks the most classic and symmetrical. A gentle rectangle, up to about 1.10, can flatter a longer finger and sometimes offers better value. We show you the difference in the hand so the proportion is your decision.
Natural or lab-grown?
We work with both. A lab-grown diamond is chemically and optically identical to a natural one and costs considerably less for the same size and quality, often meaning a larger or finer princess for the same budget. A natural diamond carries the provenance of a stone formed over geological time. Both come with independent GIA or IGI certification.
To begin, book a free consultation by phone on +44 20 7206 2705, by WhatsApp, or through our contact page. If you would rather start from the ring than the stone, start with a setting, or read our guide to the round brilliant cut to compare the two.
